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Ken Reece

Golden Age of Steam on the Peak Way

When I planned the Peak way Walk, one of my objectives was to showcase the heritage which you can see along the route. I think it is fair to say that this has been achieved, and this will add interest to your hike. Apart from the drystone walls which help to define this unique landscape, there are so many heritage features. Old railways, canals, mills, aqueducts, viaducts, churches, well dressings, spa towns, and of course, two major country estates both having magnificent historic houses. This blog is about the railways.


I must admit to having been a rail enthusiast, as a young lad; it was quite inevitable because at the bottom our back garden was the main Manchester to London line. Our house was so close to the railway that whenever a steam locomotive passed, the house literally shook; visitors used to remark on it, but it was something that we just became accustomed to. Back then, my mum used to do all the washing by hand and then hang it out on the washing line to dry. Occasionally, a train would pass and spew out a horrible black smoke and mum was less than pleased when she found our clothes and bedding covered in soot!


And so, I used to spend many hours sat on the creosoted fence just beyond the garden with my trainspotting books, ticking off each of the steam trains as they thundered past. Most of these simply had a unique number, but the ‘special’ ones all had names, and of course there were the ‘extra special’ ones such as the Flying Scotsman and Mallard which I would see once in a while. Eventually, diesel trains, and then trains powered by electricity, replaced the old steam trains, but these had no character like the old steam locos did, and so I lost interest in trainspotting. However, when I first walked the Peak Way and saw all that remains of the old railways, it brought back memories of that wonderful era of steam trains.

 

Stockport Viaduct


The Peak Way starts and finishes in Stockport, and so there is a good chance that you may see the Stockport Viaduct. If you travel to Stockport by train, you may find that it takes you over the viaduct as you look out of the window of your carriage with a panoramic view of Stockport and beyond. If your journey is by road, then you may pass beneath it on the M60 motorway.

Stockport Viaduct is an imposing structure in the centre of town, which carries the West Coast main line 111 feet above the River Mersey. Completed in 1840, it is a major engineering achievement which, at that time, used about 11 million bricks in its construction comprising 27 arches. It took 21 months to complete using up to 600 men who worked shifts day and night. In the late 1880s, the viaduct underwent a major alteration when it was widened to accommodate four tracks, then later, in the 1960s, power lines were installed as part of the West Coast Main Line electrification.


Sett Valley trail

The last two and a half miles of Stage 1 of the Peak Way Walk (Stockport to Hayfield) is along the Sett Valley Trail. This was a former railway line linking Hayfield to Manchester, as far as New Mills. The railway came to Hayfield in 1868 and served thousands of passengers who came to visit the countryside, as well as goods trains which serviced the mills which were located along the valley. Reduced demand resulted in closure of the line in 1970. Hayfield Railway Station, located on the site of the car park, was subsequently closed.


Kinder Road

Whilst on Stage 2 of the Peak Way Walk (Hayfield to Edale) you may notice an information board about the branch line which was built to transport materials, and workers, during the construction of Kinder Reservoir which was opened in 1912. There were over 700 workers who, along with their families, were housed in temporary huts.


Hope Valley Line

On stage 3 of the Peak Way Walk (Edale to Hope), shortly after leaving Edale and just before reaching the small hamlet of Barber Booth, you will cross a railway bridge above the Manchester to Sheffield line which was completed in 1894. This line is, of course, fully operational. Indeed, it may be useful for Peak Way hikers who want use the Hope Valley as a base for this part of the route, because there are stations at Edale, Hope, Bamford and Grindleford.


Peak Rail

On stage 7 of the Peak Way Walk, just past Rowsley, you will meet the Peak Rail which currently runs on a 4-mile track between Rowsley South station and Matlock. It is operated by railway enthusiasts who use steam and diesel locomotives to provide a leisure experience for passengers.


The line forms part of the old Midland Railway line between Manchester Central and London St Pancras which was closed in 1968. The route through the Peak District would have been an enormous challenge for engineers who had to construct two major viaducts at Monsal Dale and Millers Dale, build several long tunnels and make cuttings to pass through the rocky terrain. For passengers though, the scenery would have been stunning.


Peak Rail uses timetables that facilitate single or return journeys, and trains stop at Darley Dale on the way to their destination. They also offer some that offer Sunday Lunch and Afternoon Tea onboard and some are for special events such as the Santa Special around Christmastime.


And you can even drive the diesel and steam trains on a ‘Driver Experience’ ………….. if you can afford it.


Steeple Grange Light Railway

On stage 7 of the Peak Way Walk on leaving Cromford and just before reaching the High Peak Trail, you pass by Steeple Grange Light Railway which is also operated by enthusiastic volunteers.


It is built on the trackbed of the Killer’s Branch of the old Cromford and High Peak Railway, now the High Peak Trail. Motive power is provided by ex-industrial diesel, petrol, and battery-electric locomotives, and passengers are carried in old manriders once used to convey miners below ground.   When you visit the railway, you can enjoy a unique 25-minute round-trip train ride up their main line to Middleton, passing through dramatic limestone cuttings, together with a shorter trip along their branch line into Steeplehouse Quarry. On most days operating days volunteers are on hand to answer questions about the local railways and show visitors the fossils to be found in the area.

When I first walked the Peak Way, I had not heard of the Steeple Grange Light Railway and I literally came across it as I made my way to the High Peak Trail to continue my walk. So, I stopped to chat with one of the volunteers who was really friendly and informative, and he insisted that I had a photograph taken with one of the small locomotives.


High Peak Trail/Middleton Top

Immediately after passing the Steeple Grange Light Railway you turn right on the High

Peak Trail which was part of the former High Peak Railway which ran from High Peak Junction to Whaley Bridge. Opened in 1831, it was mainly used to transport goods and minerals between Cromford Canal and the Peak Forest Canal.


After a short while, you will be walking steeply uphill to reach Middleton Top, where you will see the restored Middleton Top Engine House, which was built in 1829, and was used to haul wagons up the incline.


Tissington Trail

As you leave Ashbourne on the Peak Way Walk, you will walk a short distance along the Tissington Trail which was created by the Peak District National Park, This was yet another former railway line; the London and North Western Railway (LNWR) between Buxton and Ashbourne first opened in 1899. You will meet this trail again later in the walk, shortly after leaving Hartington, where you will see more remnants of this former railway.


Monsal Trail


On stage 7 of the Peak Way Walk (Ashford-in-the-Water to Buxton), after crossing the A6 road you will walk down the beautiful Monsal Dale, at the end of which stands an imposing structure – the iconic Headstone Viaduct, comprising 5 arches of 70 feet high at the centre, it is 300 feet long. Built in1863 by the Midland Railway to carry the railway over the River Wye below, its construction was controversial, with some opponents stating that it spoilt the beauty of the dale. But it is, without doubt, another major feat of engineering during the Victorian era.


And right next to it, is another monumental engineering achievement – the Headstone Tunnel. This is one of six tunnels on the Monsal Trail and indeed the longest of these at 533 yards. This, and the other tunnels along the route, remained closed for many years for of safety reasons, and were only opened to the public in 2011.

As you approach the viaduct, the Peak Way route is to the left-hand corner bringing you on to the Monsal Trail.



The route follows the former Manchester to London Midland Railway line, built in 1863 and closed in the late 1960s, and there is evidence of its existence along the Trail. The Peak Way follows the Monsal Trail until it departs to visit the beautiful Cheedale. Along the way, you will pass through Cressbrook Tunnel, being 471 yards long.  


Shortly after the tunnel you will reach Millers Dale where you will come to two viaducts, the first of which was built by the Midland Railway in 1866. Increasing traffic meant that a second viaduct, parallel to the first, was built in 1905, increasing the number of tracks to four. Millers Dale station was at the junction where passengers for Buxton joined or left the trains between London and Manchester. The former station now has café and toilets.


Cromford Railway

On stage 11 of the Peak Way Walk the route soon leaves Buxton centre to reach Wild Moor where you will see evidence of the old Cromford Railway mentioned above, including the sealed Burbage Tunnel through which the line used to run.

 

So, when you’re walking the Peak Way, why not look out for the many relics which still remain from this past era.



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